imagine all the people...

For Your Information

2006-03-05T16:41:00.000+01:00

This blog is now situated at this website.

It will not be updated anymore, but please go to www.akiaby.dk for more on Africa, Politics, Travelling and current world affairs.

Urgent action on Ethiopia!

2006-02-28T09:08:00.000+01:00

11 students – Shumi Dandana, Dawit Urga, Ahmed Musa, Adam Uma, Sada Ibrahim, Ulufa Bilo, Adem Jildo, Gemechu Bona, Musa Buta, Berhanu Gemechu, and Matewos Teferra – are among several thousand school and college students from the Oromo ethnic group who have been detained in a series of anti-government demonstrations in different parts of the Oromia Region, in Ethiopia’s capital, Addis Ababa, and in other towns. All those named above are detained incommunicado at a number of different locations, and are at risk of torture or ill-treatment.

Go to Amnesty USA to take action

More on the elections in Uganda

2006-02-27T14:27:00.000+01:00

Museveni won, which cannot surprise anyone. Question is; What is next? Will museveni be able to keep his promises of reform?

N.Y Times

BBC

Will there be a civil war in Iraq?

2006-02-27T12:51:00.000+01:00

Crisis Group just published a report on the future of Iraq - and it does not look good...

more...

Corporate Responsibility - Or the total lack thereof...

2006-02-26T23:09:00.000+01:00

Governments can do bad things, but this list is proof that companies also sin - And sometimes sin big time...

Weblogs - A new age of activism

2006-02-24T14:51:00.000+01:00

Weblogs are the new way of bringing a voice to the people. Easy-to-make websites give persons all over the world (with an internet acces) means to communicate ideas, feelings and experiences to the on-line community.

Imagine how that can change freedom of speech and access/spread of information.

The world is talking, are you listening?

Before we all start bloging, and cheer on the IT-revolution remember that there is no cyber-café in Darfur or in the war-torn Congo-jungle. For more on ICT (Information and Communication Technology) .

Some Friday fun...

2006-02-24T14:48:00.000+01:00

I just saw "The Yes Men"-film a couple of nights ago. It was a funny example of intelligent activism with a mass appeal. It is not a great piece of film art, but it delivers a message, which can not be said about a lot of other films...

more...

Take action against injustice in Ethiopia

2006-02-24T14:46:00.000+01:00

ETHIOPIA 42 people arrested during Ethiopian Orthodox Church processions

Killed: Lealem Bogale (f), and two others

Forty-two people have been arrested during Ethiopian Orthodox Church celebrations in the capital, Addis Ababa. They are reportedly being held incommunicado and are at risk of torture or ill-treatment.On 19 January, thousands of members of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, the principal faith in Ethiopia, were singing and processing through central Addis Ababa as part of the Timket (Epiphany) church festival. At one point when police halted the procession, some of those in the procession began shouting for the release of opposition party leaders who have been charged with treason and other offences. Police reportedly opened fire with live ammunition on people suspected to be demonstrating support for the Coalition for Unity and Democracy (CUD) party. Two people were reportedly killed and several wounded as a result of the shooting. The following day, police reportedly opened fire on a further Timket procession in Addis Ababa, wounding over 20 people. One of the wounded, Lealem Bogale, was said to have died later in hospital. Police said that 42 people were arrested during these incidents but did not disclose details of those held or the grounds for their arrests. It is not yet known where they are being held, though they are believed to be held incommunicado. They have apparently not yet been brought to court. Under Ethiopian law, detainees are required to be brought before a court within 48 hours of their arrest. It is not yet known where they are being held. Police later stated that the deaths were the result of a stampede caused by people in the procession throwing stones, though it is not clear whether they were referring to the violence which took place on 19 or 20 January. They also claimed that 14 police were injured by stone-throwing and a bomb explosion, although it was not clarified when or where the explosion occurred.

More

Exciting Friday

2006-02-24T09:21:00.000+01:00

This is indeed an interesting day today. Not only do my friend have a birthday-party, but the world (Or some of it) also stands at interesting crossroads.

Elections in Uganda are keeping observers on the edge of the chair, while Reuters reports on a close run between the President Museveni and the opposition leader Mr. Besigye. Museveni has show signs of an increaed will to stay in power despite public opinion, and Mr. Besigye has had a hard time campaigning, since he proberly spent more time in jail then at elections-rallies.

Elections are judged free and fair (as free as they get in Uganda), but observers do report on violence

The Philippines are in a state of emergency after a coup, countercoup or a foiled coup-attempt. This county will certainly create havoc if it collapses.

And Sri Lanka continues talks of peace in Geneva - Perhaps putting a final end to the civil war lasting over 2 decades. An initial cease-fire will prove a big challenge at first.

And so the week is coming to a close - For some a time for party and celebreation. For other a moment of truth.

Denmark in the spotligt

2006-02-21T15:57:00.000+01:00

Denmark in "60 minutes"

Human Rights Watch - One of the world leading human rights NGOs

Handbook for Bloggers

2006-02-13T22:21:00.000+01:00

Reporters without Borders have made a guidebook for Bloggers, who wish to remain anonymous.

Read it here

Enter Hamas - Political Islam on the centerstage

2006-02-13T22:03:00.000+01:00

An interesting report about the Palestinean election and Hamas.

Make some Noise 4 Human Rights

2006-02-13T21:54:00.000+01:00

start the noise

On Darfur

2006-02-13T21:51:00.000+01:00

see this website

Amnesty Internationals response to the Cartoon Affair

2006-02-13T21:41:00.000+01:00

It is in Danish. So for the few of you - Enjoy.

On hunger...

2006-02-13T21:33:00.000+01:00

Take 5 seconds to combat hunger. It is free and actually just take 5 seconds.

The Hungersite

Cartoon affairs...

2006-02-13T20:56:00.000+01:00

Well... I have heard about this whole thing. It is quite the stir up. After being away in Africa I have not made my mind up yet, but I'll definately have a comment soon. But so far this is my statement:
1) Burning embassies are not ok at all
2) Thinking that the people who burn and torch danish property are representative of muslims will not benefit analysis. I will claim that the rioteers are a small minority. I do however believe that a lot of muslims are hurt - But that does not mean that they are in the same category as the bad guys.

Look here for some alternative readings on the topic. I expected the infamous Al-jazeera to have a radical full coverage, but I am glad to see that they are more concerned about elections in Haiti and Nepal.

Here is the official government response from Denmark.

Here is a quite unofficial response to the whole affair.

Since I am not on the spot anymore...

2006-02-13T20:55:00.000+01:00

Here is some government propaganda for you. Read with a healthy sceptisme.

Farewell strange world.

2006-02-13T20:08:00.000+01:00

My journey in Ethiopia came to an end with the boarding of flight SK 0552 to Amsterdam.
The flight home was troublefree, and within 12 hours I had a happy reunion with my family. It was like arriving in another world at another time.

I wonder if I met the "real" Ethiopia. Anyway - what I met in Ethiopia amazed, baffled, disgusted and enslaved me. I have fallen in love with the Ethiopia I found. And as with other relationships there are flaws and quirks in your partner. Sometimes she confuses you, angers you, and sometimes she is an outright pain in the ass. My Ethiopia is not much different. But in the end I love her. Even with her quirks and flaws. And I wish her the best. I am gratefull to the people and the country for giving me a chance to see a new and brave world, which is not so far away from my own world. In Ethiopia people also have dreams and fears. And they should have equal right to pursue their dreams and fight their fears. Sadly this is not always the case. Too many people live with little influence over their own life. A sheperd-boy will most likely die as a sheperd-boy - Even though he dreams of being a doctor and helping his village. A streetkid will never wear anything like the shiny shoes he polish for 50 cents. I can only hope that the few which controls the life of the many will have the strength and spirit to do good for the people. And I hope that the people will never stop dreaming - at least not until these dreams comes to life. I have seen great strenght in Ethiopia. People survive despite brutal surroundings. If these proud people put their mind into creating a brave new Ethiopia it is possible. All they need is a little help. In the end it is a matter of will. Their will. But also our will to help - And at least we should not stand in the way of them realizing their dreams.

I have made my farwell with Ethiopia. But hopefully this will not be a farewell to you dear reader. Once in a while I will bring pictures, stories and flashbacks from my travels. I still have a lot to tell you if you will lend me your ears.

Keeping up with the beat.

2006-02-11T13:49:00.000+01:00

Last night was definitely a night to remember. By some mysterious way involvinga meeting in a dodgy nightclub in Harar, a song called “the rivers of Babylon”and some US marines posted under great secrecy in the Ethiopian desert, we meetwith two very trendy female students last night in Dire Dawa. They believed wewere working with their brother lying down water pipes in Ethiopia, and webelieved they were fun easygoing people… It showed out that we were all a bitoff on our initial perceptions on the other. After displaying greater interestsin their mobile phones and avoiding their very jealous boyfriends – The USMarines – my friend and I decided to just get the best of it and have a fewbeers and drinks. One drink took another, and after quite a few Gin&Tonics eventhe girls let phones be phones and joined our conversation. According to thegirls we found out that we were not trendy enough to be allowed entrance to anyof the hot nightclubs in Addis with our jeans and sneaker-like shoes. We did notreally plan to go clubbing in Addis, but my sidekick noted that since he isspending another month down here he might head to the market and find apin-stripped suit. We continued to what was supposed to be the hot spot in townbut it showed out that, however classy the décor, the place was boring, withoutcharm and with no dancing at all. It did however had Rum and Coke, which gavereason to much rejoice between the dried out Danes and the Caribbean liquor. Weended parting with the girls the moment we thought that they would tag along fora good-night beer at our hotel balcony. That showed out to be the turning pointof an otherwise rather dull Thursday night in town.

Just across from our hotel, on the same Piazza, was the Rendezvous Pup. Theplace is a desperate attempt to fit a reggae dance-hall into a shack the sizeof my bedroom. Posters of Take That (A teenage Pop-band fallen from grace adecade ago) shared space with wall paintings of Bob Marley and Beyonce Knowles.It was dark, hot and tightly packed place with people making good use of thePiazza for a cool breeze to cool down between dances. We went onboard inanother round of beer, and before long we were doing our best to keep up to thebeat on the dance floor – Well actually the only floor there was. Luckily oursneakers and short sleeved shirts were not frowned upon, and this was as muchthe place to be if you were young and just looking for a fun time as you couldget it here in Dire Dawa. It was fantastic. It was a mix of a hot Latin spiritand the African way of letting things happen. The dancefloor I saw last nighthas forever shamed dancefloors in Denmark – Despite the music selection rangingfrom West Coast Gangsta rap to local pop music everybody moved and swayed.

02.30. We walked 20 meters to our hotel, waking up the gatekeeper whocomfortably slept under the stair. Realizing my room was filled with sinistermosquitoes I initiated proper precautions. Lighting up some incense given to meby the manger and hanging my net up with the assistance of duct-tape and a chairmy room quickly took the character of an Asian opium den and a wedding suite. Ifell asleep to the fading tunes from the Rendezvous Pup, the squeaking from myfan and the mosquitoes buzzing a complaint about my inhospitality towards theirpresence. Even though this was my second last night in Ethiopia I felt that Ihad said my last goodbyes to the African beats, beer and night-hawks whom I alllearned to love.

On poverty in the city…

2006-02-09T23:37:00.000+01:00

When mothers neglect their children, preferring to chew Chat instead of takingcare of their small children the chewing has taken to much hold on society.When even school teachers prefer to spend the day chewing Chat, in order toperform during teaching, instead of being with their family or working fortheir wellbeing Chat has become a substance on the line with other drugs thatdegrade society and persons. It makes me sad. And it makes me even sadder thatsome people know they are addicted but fail to react accordingly.

I had another meeting with the harsh realities. These meetings come in plentydown here it is just a question how much you pay attention to them, and howmuch you choose to care- And also how much misery you are able to cope with.On the countryside they might be poor, but is a total different poverty toobserve or experience. Curiosity is still the prevalent feeling you meet whentraveling there, and even though they are poor they are still very proud andfriendly.In the cities everybody does their best to ignore the small hands that arebegging for some money or food. I know that if I look too much of them theywill think there is some hope of me giving them something. And I know that if Ilook at them I will give them something, or at least feel terribly inclined todo something. But even though I am insanely rich compared to them my donationswell never be sufficient in the long run no matter how generous the donationsare. The poverty here is aggressive and up front. The sidewalk cafes on thestreets make a direct collision with the street children, bringing two worldstogether. The have and the have not. Street children are kept at bay by a guywith a stick. Beating or chasing away the children who are not satisfied bylooking at our world from a distance across the street. It makes me angry andsad. It is close to a feeling of being powerless. I could give away all I hadbut it would not be enough. I hate my self for being cold and ignoring thepeople suffering. I hate the government of this country for using too muchmoney on war, military and oppression instead of providing for the poor. And Iwonder how I should feel towards the UN staff, embassy people and diplomats whobuy US imported bottled water, toilet paper and other standard products insteadof being the locally produced products which have a really reasonable quality.They are here to help. They properly work very hard. Some of them do afantastic and admired work. But in same way I cannot help wonder what theconsequences are of these people shielding themselves from the realities ofEthiopia behind barb-wired walls and luxury products. And I do not like thenotion of the fact that I might one day be the one behind the fenced UNcompound drinking US bottled water talking about the world on the other side ofthe wall. I am still at a crossroad in regards to what I think about the wholeissue of an aid-industry – An industry profiting and being kept alive by thesame poverty and despair it is supposed to alleviate. While I make up my mind Icontinue to live in my own walled up world in hotels and guesthouses… I do alsouse every chance I get to get my shoes shined, sandals washed and gladly paychildren to run errands for me. I feel much better rewarding those who try towork, even though their attempts may be of poor quality. I hope this willinspire them to work for their own future and to be proud. I also gladly giveto the elderly, victims of war or the handicapped – They do not have a chanceof making a living without donations. Some churches and NGOs also have foodtickets which you can give instead of giving money which may be spent ondrinking, glue or candy. There are plenty of possibilities of making adifference down here. But it seems like taking on a huge task that cannot belifted alone. All have to do their part, especially the people whose liveshopefully will be changed one day. Too many people have fallen into a state ofdespair, lack of self-respect and lost their will to fight for a betterEthiopia. Some of them are just waiting to die, for someone else to help themor simply just fight for their own survival and wellbeing neglecting the worldaround them unless the world provide them with money. Too much ego, too littlecommunity.

Sorry for this rather dark and gloomy post. I just had to get it off my chest.

This blog might describe life in Ethiopia a bit too bright and perhaps evennaïve. I am aware that objectivity is an ideal I am not conferring to duringthese writings. I just try to communicate impressions, conversations andexperiences while I am “embedded” as a traveler in this country. When I comeback and get the experiences at a distance I might change my views and opinionsabout a lot of things. At this moment the world is filled with contrast betweenrich and poor, happy and sad and those with a future and those without. I prayfor them all and I to rise to the challenge of making this world a less divided world.

Dire Dawa - Southern Europe meets Africa

2006-02-08T23:27:00.000+01:00

It was supposed to be dusty, dull and uninspiring. It was none of the mentioned.Dire Dawa is one of the biggest cities in Ethiopia, and one of the only citiesbeing subject to an actual townplanning. Thanks goes out to Italian occupantsin the thirties. In regards to the planning that is. streets are clean, broadand linned with trees. I have a nice room in a colonial hotel with a nice odourof Thyme hanging around the room. There is a view over the Piazza, just acrossfrom the old train station- the rails leading to the neighbour country ofDjibouti. It was once a busy place, or so I sense. Now the only evidence ofpast grandeur is a train placed in the center of the square, as a makeshiftroundabout. Now this area reminds me of vacations in southern France or Italy.Sidewalk coffeeshops are all over, with the boulevard trees giving throwing anice shade over the people sitting waiting for the heat to give in to the coolafternoon air.

My only concern is the fan in my room. When I turned it on during my afternoonnap it spinned wildly around as if it was trying to compensate for the lack ofenergy in the rest of the city. After being hypnotized by the wild swinging ofthe once-white arms of the fan, I concluded that since it had not fallen down yet it would not do so the next 45 minuttes. I did however go to sleep with a fear that the wrecked machine just waited for me to sleep before it would launch a furious attack.

Just a concluding remark on my experiences in Harar. The Hyenas are big, furious and with strong powerfull jaws. And I managed to hand feed all of them for 5minutes! It was at first a very scary feeling, but then I got to know thelittle rascals. Osama was by far the most wellbehaved.

On the way betweenm Harar and Dire Dawa we stopped in the area's biggest chatmarket. It was amazing! Small green leafs sustaining an entire area. But a look around the small streets of Harar and Dire Dawa (Well, actually where ever you look) you see the effects of Chat. Litteraly everybody chew. Rich and poor,tall and short, thin and fat (well, as fat as they get down here). Society is inone hand stimulated and at the same time pacified by Chat. In the long run I donot think it to be good for the country. People gets to addicted and simply useto much time chewing instead of working og something productive. For a good Chatsession you use at least 4-6 hours. Today I saw a guy chew away Chat worth of100 Birr, in a country where a streetcleaner makes about 5 Birr an hour. And that amount of chat chewing is not at all uncommon.

Now the sun is going down. The air is slightly cooler and it is time for a cold beer at the sidewalk cafe.

all the best.

All is well

2006-02-07T07:31:00.000+01:00

We are now in Harar - The town of Chat and Hyenas (The spotted wolf-like creatures with the crazy laughter).

Our only feel of the "Cartoon Controversy" is what we see in CNN. Muslims in Ethiopia is of a very different sort that the fundamentalist we see in TV and dread at home. Here Burkhas and Saudi Arabia is viewed with distrust and a raised eyebrow - Religious intolerance is frowned upon in most places. So DO NOT Worry...

This is the first chance I get to write on the blog, since we left Aksum 7 days ago. Lalibella is without a working internet, and we have spent 3 days in some wonderfull mountain-villages.

Lalibella was fantastic - 800 year old churches spread out over, under and above the landscape. I'll write a lot more about it at another occassion.

Last night I was a witness to a true battle of turf. The local street dogs of Harar vs. Local Hyenas of Harar Countryside. The battlefield was the local football field just below my window. It was a fierce and really noisy affair, and I think that the streetdogs took the fighter-trophy home. The Hyenas did however win in regard to battlesounds - A hysteric laughter in the face of danger outnumbered 1 to 3.

Tonight I'll go out pass the citywalls with the famous Hyena-men, and feed the hyenas in the light of a taxi. I am really looking forward.

We are contemplating leaving Harar tomorrow and head to Dire Dawa - The second biggest town in Ethiopia. It looked quite nice when we drove by last night.

I look forward to see some of you back in Denmark in a few days - When my African Adventure comes to an end. It will most certainly not be my last.

all the best

Last day in Aksum

2006-01-29T18:14:00.000+01:00

So last day in Aksum is coming to an end. I'll be without interneconnection the week, but will write again when I find a place in Harar.

On my last day I saw tour de Aksum, a bicyclerace in the streets of the town complete with cheering crowds and an intense runup in the end. We haggled with a one-eyed boy who rents out bikes, chatted with a schoolteacher about Chat and the effects on society and became spectators at a wedding in a backalley under layers of plastic and with loud loud music.

Aksum is great, but I look forward to move on since this is a sleepy town - And the pace here is really putting me down in the long run. No more siestas, it is time to do a bit of hiking in the countryside of Lalibella.

Pictures

2006-01-28T10:17:00.000+01:00

Dear all,

I am sad to say that posting pictures proves difficult because of the lacking and slow technology down here. I try once in a while, but no luck. I have now taken 1000 pictures, and some are great. Others are not. I will put some out as soon as possible. If not while I am here, then when I return home.

I have another two days here in Aksum and then I'll take a domestic flight to Lalibella - A town known for its old and beautifull churces placed almost underground. Here I'll also take a walk in the mountains and live in some villages for a couple of days.

Afterwards I head for Harar. The town of Islam, Chat and old streets covered in desert dust. I'll spend some days sipping the local beers and the famous coffee. I'll have a day or two in Addis before I return home to Denmark.

Inspired by my conversation with the UNMEE personel yesterday, I just stumbled over this report - not sure if I have posted the link before. The conclusions might be right on, but I have not felt anything as a tourist. It is not a problem between the people of Ethiopia and Eritrea, but between the political leaders trying to cling on to power. Or so the puzzle seems to show in this moment. When I return I look forward to try and piece my experiences and conversations together to a meaningfull picture - but the result will proberly be a slideshow of different pictures.

Hope to bring some pictures soon.

People instead of stones

2006-01-27T19:32:00.000+01:00

It has been a really nice day. The monuments and museums are nice, but are mostly presenting old stones. Some are enourmous and very impressive in sheer size and considering these are 3000 years old and once stood high in the air erected by man.
The best part of the day was however not consisting of big rock stelaes. and thousand of years old history..I saw a funeral with hundreds of women dressed in white mourning the dead, a old man playing the trompet under the village tree in honour of the dead, sat and talked with people in a veru atmospheric Chat-den and had an interesting conversion and beers with some military observers from the UNMEE (UN's mission to Eritrera and Ethiopia). For those conserned with my recent interest in Chat, do not worry. I am just quite intriged by the cultural, economic, religious and social aspect of this funny little green plant. I consider writing an article...

The Blog is working well now, and I seem to be able to update it by myself not using my brother as a technical go-between. The keyboard is however very disfunctional (like all the other keyboards downhere) so excuse my mistypings.

Greetings from the capital of Queen Sheba – Aksum

2006-01-26T20:10:00.000+01:00

Since my last post I have trekked in the Siemien Mountains, fought off a long-fingered monkey, seen a fantastic sunset, chewed Chat, tried the national brew of Tej, bought an entourage of scout, guide, mule, mule-handler and a cook and slept under the most amazing sky. I have also declared war against the national park association and been named Mr. Angry by local guides and hustlers. It is about time that some tourists start making some demands for efficiency and transparency in this country. So I have started a crusade agains lack of service and general hustling. A crusade I might loose, and perhaps die trying. (It is a tough battle when guides are armed with automatic rifles).

But let me start another place…
I arrived safely last night after a hellish trip on the bus from Debark to Aksum. I met up with some really nice people from the US and Sweden, whom all are about to conquer at least one continent during their travels. I now stay at the Africa Hotel, in a nice room (my own hot shower and toilet!!). Last night we came so late, so the kitchen had a hard time preparing a meal, since they had ran out of food. I ended up with pasta and a steak on the side. After a few beers we crashed to bed. After being 3 days in the mountains and a busride covering me in dust my private bathroom came in handy before going to bed.

Aksum is actually the old center of Ethiopia’s ancient civilization. Filled with palaces, tombs, stelae and the ruins of the first church on the African continent. According to legends this town is the Queen of Sheba’s capital in the 10th century before Christ. Known to Greek and Roman traders and historians Aksum was described as a great and powerful city. I am still a bit confused about the exact history of this area, and it seems like there is a good mix of fiction and facts surrounding this place. The son of King Solomon and Queen Sheba, Menelik the First, is said to have taken the Arc of the Covenant from Israel to Ethiopia 3000 years ago and starting a dynasty that ruled to the end of Haile Sellasie in around 1960. Fact is that tomorrow I will see things that will make even Egypt fade in regards to monuments. Or so The Book says. (By the Book I do not mean the Christian bible. I mean Lonely Planet. Of course…)

I went for a morning run this day around Aksum. It is a nice small town with broad boulevards, palmtrees and camels floating by, almost like small dessert boats stacked with firewood. Houses are painted in nice looking blue, green and yellow. And so are the churches and mosques, making the city looking like something out of Playmobile or other toy-concept. I just retuned after enjoying beers and food at a hotel overviewing the town from a nearby mountainsside, the archeological sites stretching out below us. Food was western-style and a much needed change. The hotel as taken out of the sixties and a spectacular show of decoration and architecture. Today was a day for relaxation. After treks and a long journey to Aksum I deserved it. Another curious observation from your correspondent here in the south is the fact that a lot of women have tattoos on their neck showing tribal and Christian symbols, almost as necklaces garved or painted directly on their skin. They look really tough and could scare even the most hard-core biker.

The trip to the mountains was fantastic. Myself and another travel companion were equipped with a scout, guide, cook and a mule-handler and his mule. In total we walked 50 km by small trails going over plains, small hills, steep gorges, lush and densely forest and naked mountainsides. The grassy plains were filled with Gelada Baboons (a crazy monkey), eagles and other enormous birds filled the sky and rabbits and deer were seen at a distance away from our small trail.
We camped near a soon-to-be-built lodge. We had a spectacular view over the lowlands that stretched hundreds of kilometers out below us. We had company of a few from the crew working at the lodge, and they invited us into their small shacks for some Chat. Chat is a mild, intoxicating stimulant that has been grown in Ethiopia for centuries. There are a lot of different views and opinions on Chat. For Muslims Chat is chewed because it brings you closer to Allah. It holds a great symbolic meaning, and there is a lot of myths attached to these small green leafs. Busdrivers chew Chat because it keeps them awake, students chew it to stay sharp and focused and some chew it for the same reasons we in the West opens a bottle of red wine when we have guests or finish the dinner with some coffee. Orthodox Christians do not chew it, since it is said to have been the only plant that grew faster and stronger when Jesus was crucified. Some say this myth was started as a part of a trade war between Arab and Christian traders centuries ago. For me Chat was nothing special. Nothing happened except my teeth turned green. I do not know if it was the Chat, but the sunset that night was amazing. The sunset was so beautiful coloring the world pink, red and purple. The horizon had an almost hazy and dreamy look, and it seemed like we were close to the end of the world. Long shadows fell over the high mountains and for a moment it seemed like time stood still.

Thanks for all your mails. I read them with great joy so feel free to send more and I look forward to see you all!

Well, I’ll finish writing now. I am safe and happy as always here in Ethiopia.

Gondar - Bangkok Delight

2006-01-21T20:10:00.000+01:00

Dear all,I have now arrived in Ethiopia's answer to Bangkok Discount-version. This placewas supposed to be Africa's answer to Camelot with old castles in beautifullsurroundings. Well the surroundings are beautifull... The rest is a dump. Westay at a crap hotel, in the bad end of town but with a nice view. We havedecided to grab a cup of coffee, buy some chocolate and dig in at the hotel.Early morning tomorrow we'll bolt out of town. I head off to treck in themountains, so I will not be able to post anything in some time. I look forwardto get some solitude and peace. Just being in the fresh air and space allaround. I guess we could have given the town another chance... The castle looksnice, but it was built by missionaries from Portugal, so I think I can save thepleasure of seeing stuff like this for a trip to Portugal. The only nice partwas when we walked into the shanty-town and had a good time with the smallpeople. These guys were good enough, but the kids hanging in the streets aroundthe center are quite the opposite.The drive from Bahar Dar to here was not too long in Ethiopian standards (6hours), and was not at all comfortable. The scenary was however really nice,and the music was (for a change) really good, supplying a nice soundtrack to atrip in the countryside where people were celebrating Sct. Michael's day. Ifyou did not know better you thought that people were attacking your car. Cracychanting and huge crowds blocked the road in every town. Out of town peoplegathered under the huge trees and came together in prayer and celebration.I feel like I should put a disclaimer to these writings. Since I meet differentpeople different places my writings here will be spontaneous and in the spur ofthe moment. I do not have the possibility to check my sources, so please forgiveany hasty comments and conclusions. Especially on subjects of politics. I needto read 5 different newspapers, and then put together some meaningfull pictureof the situation. The same goes for conversations with different persons. Italk to one guy in one part of the country, and he ofcourse have anotheropinion than the guy I met in the other part of the country. Conclusion:Comments on politics and the likes will lack certain critical comments until Ireach a new destination in the country and meet new people...Well, I'll leave the computercafe now and head into the streets. "One more timeinto the breach!" (Shakespeare qouted freely at this occation)By the way... I met an old beauty queen last night, who was the star of BaharDar 40 years ago. She was amazing and I made a good interview with her. I mether in her house in a smokey alley, where the smell of strong coffee andcooking fires was all-present. It was an amazing experience.I wish you all the best, especially all my loved ones in Denmark who now face a blizzard (Or soo I heard)

Bahar dar

2006-01-19T20:42:00.000+01:00

The festival of Timkat has begun. It is a spectacular celebration of the baptism of Christ. Monks and Priest are wearing robes and umbrellas in beautifull colours and ray ban sunglasses. It looks like nothing I have never seen.Youngsters are running wild around singing, jumping and waving sticks wildly in the air. The women and children are relaxing in the shade of trees or walk around and exchange news, gossip and greetings. The whole scenery is like an ocean of colour within clouds of dusty earth being whirled into the air.Children fell over us in what can be described as Ferengi Frenzy - Ferengi means white man. The small people was all trying to hold our hands all at one time and saying the only phrases they know in english: How are you! Where are you from! You You! It was like standing in the middle of a tornado of small,black children. It was fantastic, but also stressing. I am normally a sucker for attention, but this time I felt like I had too many fans (This will be the one time you hear me say this)We ended the night after plenty of beer and a visit to a nightclub. Well worn and filled with impressions I fell asleep under my homely mosquitonet and with the ever-present smell of mosquito repellent.The next day we had an early rise and went to the site of celebration. 4 massive tents concealled what they see as the Arc of the Covenant. There was not a soundin the air except a low chanting and praying. All the colours from the previous day was swept away by a human sea of white. 15 000 people were all dressed in white, even covering some of their heads. In the morning sun it was like coming to another planet. Even the crowds of children was quiet, just whispering a quiet "salaam" when I walked by. After filling my camera with pictures I sat down and leaned back against a dusty wall enjoying the tranquility of the place and the sun warming the air and clearing away my now distant headache caused by the celebration last night.We went for Frizz, which is a wonderfull thick juice made of diffenerent fruits and avocado. It looks very interesting, but not especially inviting. The taste however is wonderfull!Returning the the celebration scene after some hours the solem quietness of the place had been replaced by singing and dancing.

I am now sitting in a shady backroom of some computer cafe and burning my precious pictures to a number of CDs. I just finished and will not head back into the wild partying of Bahar Dar.

I send my love here from the shores of Lake Tana - Only a stone-throw away from paradise.

This country is beautifull!!!

2006-01-16T18:24:00.000+01:00

I am lost for words... This country is filled with gentle, beautiful and smiling people! We left really early this morning, like 04:00 and drove 12hours to go to Barhir Dar, near lake Tana. I am stunned and surprised. We drove through a country-side so rich in fields of crops, well paved roads and hordes of happy smiling people. Our Bush-taxi (however not being in the bush, but thatis the common word for it) shared the road with cattles, herders, people walking to school and people just doing everyday walking to god knows where. Mountains,small towns, huts made of mud, fields of crops and battle tanks rolled by tothe soundtrack of Tigrayan music played on a very bad car stereo. (Yes I did write battle tanks. The road were some places lined with old and rusty tanks from the civil war in 1989-1991, when the Mengustu regime was replaced by the present government.)The scenary was so amazing that I forgot how sleepy I was. A few coffee stops on the way introduced us to close to one million children waving, shouting and running around you - Screaming "You, You, You! Ferengi, Ferengi! How areyou!!?" It is without a doubt the sweetest and prettiest children I have met.It melted my heart, and I must have soaked the road between Addis and Bahar Darwith the melt away love for these small people.I was stunned by the richness in people and landscape in the small part ofEthiopia which I saw today. How can this country suffer from lack of food and development? (This is of course a rhetorical question, since I already have several ideas for the answers. But that does not belong in this post.)As flash-back remark. Andreas and Me (Yes, I have met with a Dane named Andreas like myself) visited the university of Addis Ababa. We hung out with some students, saw there living quarters and their faculties. We ended up at the university more or less as a coincedence, when we visited a museum. Cool,clever people who for sure do not have an easy time to concentrate on studies.The campus is so small and there is a fierce hierachy. But people are friendly and much like students in Denmark - Just more aware of their luck in opportunities.Tomorrow I'll leave the firm Ethiopian soil and visit small island monastaries that is spotted all over Lake Tana. I look forward to see this, since these places are hundreds of years old and inhabited by monks dedicated to an old way of life.I just had a wonderfull dinner with a fantastic view over the lake surrounded by enormous old trees. It is like a fairy-tale.Excuse my for the errors in typing and any mis-phrasings. I am quite a hurry,since I am trying to avoid this post being lost in a power cut. And my english is getting mixed up in my other attempts to speak German, Spanish and Amharicto the different people I meet down here.Be good everybody!

Goodbye Addis!

2006-01-15T18:35:00.000+01:00

Dear all,Life is wonderfull down here. Thanks for all your mails filled with love andgood thoughts. It is greatly appreciated. The internet connection is so baddown here that I will be very brief, and therefore not able to respond to yourindividual mails. But I send you my love.Tomorrow I leave Addis, the Capital, to start my adventures in the countryside.I will miss the call from the mosques and churches, which is a physical proofof the multi-religious character of Addis bouncing of the surrounding hills andmountains. I'll miss the friendly old waiters who seem to have walked this oldhotel since it was built in 1898. They operate the old coffee machines almostreligiously and move around the compound like monks in a monastary.I will however look forward to the solitude and beauty of the enormousmountains, as well as the impressive and old culture which I will encounterwhen I visit the old churches and castles of northern Ethiopia.I send you all my warm regards. I am safe and happy as never before.

2006-01-14T17:14:00.000+01:00

Dear all,

I finally got the blog to work with some help from my dear brother.

Flying into Addis I saw beaty revealed as the sun was rising over my mystery land continent of Africa. Seing Sudan in the morning sun was something of the most spectacular I have ever seen! I am very happy here in Ethiopia, even though I just spent a couple of days here.

I have meet up with another Dane and we are having a fantastic time in Addis! Last night we went to a local bar to see a mixture of standup comedy, live music and dancing. It is called an Asmari bar. Quite a dirty humor in these places...

The streets this night is filled with dancing and celebrating young people finished in University, weddings and happiness. All is nice and well.

Today we went to one of Africa's biggest markets. It was a practical lesson in black economy, smuggling and trade. TVs and stereos were smuggled in from Somalia and exchanged for Khat - a mild drug grown in Ethiopia. A record store did some backroom trade in illegal antiquities sold to rich europeans. Very interessting. Colours of spices mix with dust and your senses are blown away. I saw a blow-torch mask consisting of sunglasses and cardboard. Wow!!

Muslims and christians are living here without any problem, which is really fantastic. We could learn. Saudi Arabia is however doing its best to create a base for religious fundamentalisme with social projects and new mosques. But the older generations are not falling for this. Burkhas and a strict interpretation of Islam is however getting spread to the frustrated youth.

People down here are quite upset because of the goverment, and not willing to talk about the subject of politics - at least initially. I had some very interessting conversations. Etnic and religious tension seem to be part of the government's divide and conquer politic. Identity cards are being issued on basis of tribes and language - It makes you think of pre-genocide Rwanda...

The days are beautifull, warm and nice. Addis is a safe, but dusty town. We look forward to go on to Bahir Dar, which is set near Lake Tana, spotted by Island Monastaries. We will start our journey north, and I'll will proberly not be back in Addis for weeks.

Tomorrow we will meet with the greatest Ethiopian musician ever! Amazing.

Of course we got hustled, but that is part of a game. It was innocent.

Well, the internet down here is really spotty so I hope this will get through.

I wish you all the best

Last night in Denmark

2006-01-10T22:43:00.000+01:00

Dear all,

Just had a wonderfull diner with my entire family. It was so nice.

Tomorrow I am off for adventure. I have packed my backpack, eaten my first malaria-pill and calmed down my parents, brother and sisters.

It seems like I am not the only one going to Ethiopia. A bunch of American peace-makers are also making their way to the Horn. Read more on the BBC. The peace-makers are hoping to find a solution to the border dispute in the north between Ethiopia and Eritrea.

Let us hope that they do not reduce the conflict to a question of "to bald men fighting over a comb". This might not be very usefull. See an interesting report here.

Do not worry for me. I promise not to go near the border. Ethiopia is a large country and war will not directly effect the interior of the country.

I wish you all the best, and I'll write as soon as I get the chance.

Watch your manners...

2006-01-10T22:35:00.000+01:00

Foreign ministers from the 22 Arabic League nations criticised the Prime minister and the Danish government on Thursday for its actions following daily newspaper Jyllands-Posten’s decision to publish twelve drawings of the prophet Mohammed picturing him as a terrorist, women molester and an ignorant.
The foreign ministers also decided that the league’s secretary-general, Amr Moussa, and secretary-general for the Islamic Conference, Ekmeleddin Ihsanoglu, would take up the issue with the Danish government.
After Jyllands-Posten printed the drawings of Mohammed this September, raising the ire of the Muslim community in Denmark, ambassadors from 11 Muslim nations protested to the Danish prime minister, Anders Fogh Rasmussen, asking him to meet with them to discuss the tone of the debate over Islam in Denmark.
Rasmussen refused to meet with the ambassadors, calling it a matter of freedom of speech, which he had no influence over.
Rasmussen instead told the ambassadors that if they felt Jyllands-Posten had broken Danish law in any way, they could bring the matter up before the courts.
In their declaration on Thursday, the foreign ministers expressed their ‘surprise and indignation over the Danish government’s reaction, which was disappointing, despite the political, economic, and cultural bonds with the Muslim world’.
At the same time, the league also criticised ‘European human rights organisations for not having distanced themselves from the situation’.
Other Muslim organisations have previously criticised the Danish government in the matter, but the declaration from the Arabic League is seen as the most serious response so far.
Although it takes the matter seriously, the criticism will not cause the government to change its position, according to Troels Lund, foreign affairs spokesman for the prime minister’s Liberal Party.
‘Now it is important to stand our ground and say that we have a separation of powers in Denmark and something called freedom of expression,’ Lund said.

The whole case makes you wonder if the Danish media and government does not have something better to do than piss off other cultures.

Freedom of speech is important and should be championed everywhere. But it would be nice to see some of the parties in this case watch their manners. And that also goes for the extreme hate-speech found in Mosques and in the radical environment.

Some of this post is taken from the Copenhagen Post

Good news for Africa - Bad news for Ethiopia

2006-01-10T22:22:00.000+01:00

Denmark decides to increase foreign aid to 0.8 percent of the GDP with the majority of funds allocated to Africa

Denmark's foreign aid will increase in 2007 - the first time the current Liberal-Conservative government has increased foreign aid since it came to power in 2001.
Danida, Denmark's foreign aid organisation, will receive DKK 600 million more in 2007 than it did this year. In all, the government will allocate DKK 12.8 billion to foreign aid next year.
Most of the new funds will go to programmes in Africa, according to the minister for development cooperation, Ulla Tørnæs.
The government's focus on Africa was highlighted by the choice of Mali as its newest programme partnership country. As a programme partnership country, Mali will work with Denmark over the next 20 years to reduce poverty. The sad story is, that Ethiopia was given the red card because of the political situation where the opposition is getting harrased by the government and after widespread post-election violence. Ethiopia was therefore not selected as a new partner country. It makes you wonder why Denmark is able to have Uganda as a programme country with the war in the North causing widespread human rights abuses and with huge impunity for state commited crimes . Ethiopia would have been an exciting programme-country with is strategic placement on the Horn, thereby connecting well with a war against islamic extremism in Somalia as well as the peaceprocess in Sudan.

In addition, Danida will nearly double its aid to Niger, contributing DKK 80 million to improve water supplies and food safety in the world's most impoverished country.
The decision to raise aid in 2007 is a result of a government decision not to let aid fall to below 0.8 percent of GDP.
GDP has risen at a rate of four percent annually the past five years. Aid levels have remained unchanged, however, causing Denmark to fall from the most generous giver of foreign aid as a percentage of GDP to third after Norway and Luxembourg.

Aid organisation DanChurchAid welcomed the decision to use more money on African programmes. Henrik Stubkjær, DanChurchAid secretary general, hoped that the extra aid would be put towards long-term projects.
'With the catastrophes we've seen recently, it is tempting to allocate more money to emergency assistance. But it's easier for us to collect money after an emergency than it is for development,' said Stubkjær told national daily Politiken.

Even though the new rise in aid is a positive thing, I still feel that Denmark has fallen from grace. Now we are settling with something less than we once achieved when we gave over 1% under the previous government. But the increase is still a stream of sunshine in the grey danish weather.

Some of this post is taken from the Copenhagen Post

So close to departure...

2006-01-09T19:51:00.000+01:00

Dear all,

I just finished my Bachelor of Arts exam today. It was quite satisfying. Decent grade, and I learned a lot of the whole proces.

My applications for master-programmes in Uppsala were also just sent today.

That means that now I am all free to think about Ethiopia!

Well, I will not bore you with my travel preparations. Even though they are going forward.

Instead I would like to lead you on to this very exciting report about political islam, which has been my good-night reading topic the latest months. Soon-to-be Elections in Palenstine as well as ended elections in Iraq and Egypt, instability in Lebanon and islamic terror in Europe give us all reason to reflect about the character of political islam - assuming that there is one character.

If reform in the Middle East and war on terror is to succeed, we must make an effort to identify reformers. The present divide between fundamentalists (Terrorists) and moderates (pro-western) is not only misleading, but could result in further radicalisation of islamic societies and political groups. The report from The Crisis Group try to make distinctions, which could be usefull for politicians, observers and anyone trying to understand islam.

Well, this certainly is off-topic in relation to Ethiopia - But this is also a blog about politics. So here is the report. Just read the summery if you are in a hurry. It is enlightening.

Perhaps I should try and meet with some muslim clerics in Ethiopia. It seems that they are able to live peacefull together down-there, even when we are struggling to do the same. There is as far as I know 60 percent christians and 40 percent muslims in Ethiopia. I will look into the matter and report back to you all.

Getting prepared

2006-01-02T19:26:00.000+01:00

In 10 days I'll go to Ethiopia. This will be my first travel to the continent which I have only dreamt and read about... (Well, besides 3 weeks in Egypt.)

It is actually funny how I have thrown my self into the arms of Africa without ever being there. 6 years ago I started to read about development and politics, mostly in Africa. Then I got involved in numerous NGOs like Amnesty International. One step took another, and now I have spent 1/4 of my life dedicated to understanding why some of us have so much and others have soo little. Hopefully I will find that Ethiopia might lack something, but have other things in plenty.

Will this trip scare me? Will I be further encouraged? Time will tell, but it is about time I find out. (Luckily there are around 51 other countries in Africa to visit)

I just bought my maleriapills and stuff like that. Taking health precautions.

Parents and friends are a little concerned about the situation. So am I. But I try to be carefull and listen to those currently on the ground. But of course Ethiopia is not like France. Even though they both have riots, France and Ethiopia... Sadly there is a lack of happy stories about the wonderfull things in Ethiopa... But some stories are not all about famine and war. I for sure will do my best to bring you some beams of sunlight from Ethiopia. I would like to take some pictures. I am very much inspired these days about photography as a way of showing realities. This is a dramatic but good example.

Well. I just got my exam questions for my BA. exam in International Development Studies. About the african state, warlords and state failure in Sierra Leone. Sad reading. But realities.

Wish you all the best

My very second blog-experience

2006-01-02T17:02:00.000+01:00

Dear all,

Well. First I tried another blog, but apparently it went awry in some way. So now I try to create another. Actually it is hard to find a suitable name. And when I find one, it always seem that some have agreed with the suitabillity before me - Thereby taking the name... So I have now ended up with a not so imaginative name. But since this blog constitute some writing and I am from 1982 - Writings1982 seemed like a good place to start.

I'll take the chance to present you to my very first blog-experiance:

"So here it is... my very first blog. I was inspired to do this after reading blogs concerning Ethiopia. This has lead me to other interesting sites about Africa. See here and here. I am going to Ethiopia in a few days, and hope this will be me medium for communication. Furthermore this blogg will reflect thoughts on my future travels. But this is not just about travels. Since I am studying International Development this blogg will be my way of further thoughts and occasionally letting off steam when world realities gets to me. I hope you will enjoy this blogg and forgive me misspellings, misconceptions and misunderstandings."

Not much has changed since my first blog-experience. I will however make this blog a little more personal. Therefore I'll trouble you with everyday ups and downs (Well, mostly ups - since I try not to experience downs).

I hope you'll enjoy these pages as much as I'll enjoy writing them.